If you've been having issues with underextrusion on your Prusa Mini 3D printer, upgrading the hotend to a Mosquito by Slice Engineering might be the solution you're looking for. This upgrade can help improve the performance of your printer and allow you to achieve better print quality.
I fought with both of my Prusa MINIs for about two years before finding this solution, and was SOOO glad I did!
Before we dive into the upgrade process, let's first talk about what underextrusion is and why it might be happening on your printer. Underextrusion refers to a situation where the extruder is unable to push out enough filament to create a consistent and continuous flow. This can lead to a variety of problems, including gaps and holes in your prints, poor surface finish, and a decrease in print speed.
There are a number of factors that can contribute to underextrusion, including a clogged nozzle, a weak extruder motor, or a faulty hotend. I'd tried replacing the nozzle (over and over), upgrading the heat break, upgrading the extruder to a Bondtech IFS, switching to a 0.6mm nozzle, adjusting temperature, retraction settings, etc etc. to no avail.
In the end, I found that the Prusa Mini's hotend design just doesn't allow it to stay cool enough to prevent heat creep, which is the buildup of melted filament inside the heatbreak/hotend above the nozzle causing a clog and/or underextrusion. If you've already tried all of the above as well, upgrading to a Mosquito hotend could be the solution you need.
The Mosquito hotend is a high-performance, all-metal hotend that is designed to improve the performance of your 3D printer. It features a compact design and a high-temperature capability, making it well-suited for use with a variety of filaments.
To upgrade to a Mosquito hotend on your Prusa MINI, you'll need to purchase the Mosquito hotend and print the necessary parts.
Just get the regular Mosquito hotend at https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/the-mosquito-hotend.
While you're waiting for the parts to arrive, print out these parts -- I recommend using the M8 mount which will fit the bowden tube parts already on your Mini:
- https://www.printables.com/model/36643-prusa-mini-mosquito-mount and
Once everything arrives and is installed, it's time to disassemble your MINI's hotend. Basically take it all apart!
Then follow the instructions at https://www.printables.com/model/36643-prusa-mini-mosquito-mount on installation - it's fairly straight-forward. Make sure to cut a small piece of PTFE tube to bridge the gap from the end of the bowden tube into the Mosquito.
Since upgrading to the Mosquito hotend on my two Prusa Minis, I haven't had ONE CLOG (knock on wood) for over 3 months of almost continuous printing. I do use a 0.6mm nozzle on both of them as I like to print a bit faster and make my parts a bit stronger, but it seems to have solved the problem.
I also upgraded to a Mosquito hotend on one of my Creality CR-10S Pro V2s - it stopped the clogging issues, but I've actually had tons of issues with the Bondtech DDX v3 on there. So much so that I'm going to revert it to the original parts and keep the Mosquito if I need it again. It did stop the clogging, though, so I know that's not the issue!
Anyway, I really hope that helps with your issues. Let me know in the comments if you have any trouble, or reach out to me on https://instagram.com/superherodiy.